It's a tall order for any one product, says Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Park View Laser Dermatology, but here are some concerns an anti-aging cream should target:

Stimulate

new collagen and elastic tissue: Gmyrek says that as we age the production of collagen and elastin decreases, which can lead to fine lines, wrinkles, and texture changes.

Exfoliate the dead skin layer: "In older skin, the top dead skin layer does not slough off as it did in youth, leading to a dry, dull appearance," Gmyrek explains. "Exfoliating products help to brighten the skin, and removing the dead skin cells helps penetration of other active ingredients in the creams."

Decrease excess and unwanted pigmentation: Sun exposure could lead to excess pigmentation, so a product will ideally rejuvenate the skin by removing unwanted pigmentation.

Prevent ongoing and further damage and aging: "If we are trying to reverse damage, we also have to stop ongoing damage and give our skin a chance to repair and make progress," Gmyrek says. Some products and ingredients that help with this include antioxidants, vitamin C, SPF 30 or higher (to prevent UVB damage), broad-spectrum sunscreen (to prevent UVA damage), and tinted makeup or sunscreen with iron oxide to prevent blue light damage.