New York Fashion Week spring summer 2021: best of Talents

New York experienced a different kind of Fashion Week this Spring Summer 2021 season. Amidst COVID-19’s ongoing global pandemic, the city has fortunately seen a

downturn in cases, enough to put on a New York Fashion Week of sorts. Being able to do so was critical as the fashion community has taken a severe hit from the pandemic. In fact designers showcasing this season both envisioned and completed their collections while in quarantine. While only a select few brands held in-person events, the majority of designers showing (on a much-shortened schedule), presented digitally with the help of The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) new platform, Runway360. Although there is no replacing the spectacle of an in-person event, the silver lining was two-fold: designers were able to creatively conceptualize and present their collections, saving money while doing so; and it was much more convenient for showgoers to attend all of the events on the schedule, not having to zig zag around the city. Additionally, a common theme among designers this season was hope and envisioning a better future, a much needed bright light for all.

Snow Xue Gao

Designer Snow Xue Gao titled her collection this season, “Work from Home” keeping her brand DNA, a mixture of East meets West intact while introducing more relaxed, yet sophisticated silky loungewear separates and pajamas into her collection. Xue Gao’s mixed prints and light pastel color palette hit the nail on the head of comfort dressing, and is sure to be what every woman will be wanting to wear this Spring.

 Wiederhoeft

Jackson Wiederhoeft of his namesake label presented his second collection this season, taking a similar note from his recently released bridal collection. The Parsons-grad, and Thom Browne alum has already dressed the likes of Rihanna, Lil’ Kim and Lady Gaga to name a few in his early tenure. The designer merges the intersection of fashion and performance, taking references from his love of theatre and dance. Taking the alternative presentation style in stride, Wiederhoeft upped the spectacle to create a fantastical collection, which he presented through a comic book and fashion film, with each look based on different Mother Goose characters.

NIHL

In keeping with his brand DNA designer Neil Grotzinger continues his exploration of subverting notions of masculinity and femininity, rebelling against the ideas that were commonplace among his midwestern upbringing. There was a clear elevation from last season, with Grotzinger presenting his intricate beaded pieces atop a New York rooftop. In keeping with his exquisite handiwork Grotzinger added sheer and chiffon to his repertoire, creating looks that are not only works of art, but much more wearable this season.

LRS

While SS21 marked the brand’s fifth year anniversary, designer Raul Solis used the occasion for somewhat of a rebrand of sorts. Although Solis’ hand was still very much present taking familiar notes from past seasons, Solis refocused his attention to proportion and silhouette. Solis used a primary color palette this season to highlight his newfound minimalistic style, showcasing this streamlined look using his go-to fabrics of choice: leather and denim. Solis continued to play on silhouette with his preferred exaggerated shoulders and elongated pant hems. The designer also introduced knitwear to his line this season. Solis created the entire collection at home by hand this season due to the quarantine, making this work the most personal in his tenure.

Social-Work

With just two years under their belt, designers Chenghui Zhang and Qi Wang presented their strongest collection to date. Although an emerging brand, the duo’s goal has been clear from the start: “to raise a social dialogue on who, where, and what is behind our products, bridging the cultural connection between customers and makers.” A contemporary line, the duo draws inspiration from vintage western style influences, this season looking to the 70s film La collectionneuse by Eric Rohmer, highlighting the 1990s youth culture. The duo’s utilitarian offering this season is in a 70s retro color palette with mod prints of plaids and stripes, checking all of the right boxes.

 Colleen Allen

Colleen Allen debuted her eponymous menswear line this season, to our much-awaited delight.The recent Central Saint Martins alum utilized digital technology to not only envision a different future, but create an alternate universe of sorts, one that resembled a deserted New York City, with animated zombie models wearing her SS21 collection. The video highlighted Allen’s utilitarian, sporty cool aesthetic. The line, which could double as protective armor revealed the designer’s sharp eye and futuristic style. We’ll surely be keeping a close eye on Allen.

Collina Strada

Never one to disappoint, designer Hillary Taymour presented an out-of-the-box, half-animated fashion film that depicted a virtual utopian rainbow-colored world. No doubt one of the most creative presentations of the season, per usual. Taymour used the digital show as an opportunity to collaborate with her community of creatives, many of whom have taken an economic hit due to the pandemic. Core collaborators included artist Sean-Kierre Lyons, whose floral illustrations combine Black folklore and personal experience, and the multimedia artist Alicia Mersey, who specializes in political resistance video. Her goal: “to construct a new virtual world of inclusiveness and joy.” In true Collina Strada fashion, SS21 saw another brightly colored collection, with tie dye, mixed floral prints, hand-drawn detailing, while also incorporating deadstock and sustainable fabric. Don’t let Taymour’s lighthearted aesthetic fool you, her collection represents her core values of social activism, and her dose of light is just what the doctor prescribed.

Christian Cowan

Designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Lil Nas X this season to debut his first unisex collection, with proceeds benefiting Atlanta’s Black queer youth community via the Loveland Foundation. The duo found inspiration from today’s rebellious youth, who is yet again facing antiquated biases, similar to the British punk movement of the 70’s. Cowan’s signature extravagance is seen through Nas’ lens this season with edgy, high volume looks that his fans have come to love. There are Swarovski crystals, sequins, checker print and bow accents aplenty. The duo created this collection and film virtually across seas with Christian stuck in London due to the pandemic and Lil Nas X in Los Angeles, tapping their diverse creative communities to model, which included designer Marc Jacobs, activist Rachel Cargle, and models Hanne Gaby and Helena Christensen to name a few. “Nas and I wanted the cast [to be not] only a representation of the community, but also the allies and trailblazers that have been key supporters of pushing queer representation in mainstream media,” said Cowan. Cowan’s clothes demand attention, and the designer used his collection this season to highlight the injustices and work that urgently needs to be done in queer communities. 

Lastly, the CFDA made a surprise announcement revealing the 2020 Fashion Award Winners as their yearly event was cancelled due to the pandemic. The 2020 recipients of the CFDA Fashion Awards are: American Womenswear Designer of the Year: Gabriela Hearst; American Menswear Designer of the Year: Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss; American Accessories Designer of the Year: Telfar Clemens for Telfar; American Emerging Designer of the Year: Christopher John Roger; International Women’s Designer of the Year: Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino; International Men’s Designer of the Year: Kim Jones for Dior. Although a shortened schedule, and virtual, the ongoing of NYFW enabled New York’s creative community an opportunity to recover, rebuild, and renew. The light at the end of the tunnel feels much closer now.

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