Ah, Coachella. After a three-year hiatus, Southern California’s most Southern California three-day weekend returned at last this past Friday, drawing plenty of celebs into the Indio desert (and onto our collective

phone screens) sporting their festival finest. And since we last saw it, #festivalstyle has certainly shifted. Mostly, it's less about festival style than style, period, with Coachella having become no less a fashion moment than the red carpet at an awards show or the NBA tunnel. Harry Styles in Gucci, Justin Bieber in Calvin Klein undies, Conan Gray in Valentino: the biggest stars know that dressing up is no longer a fun choice—it's a fundamental one. Across the board, this year’s performers made the case for dressing glitzier, chiller, and kookier—bonus points if you manage to hit all three at once.

From sequins to shoelace belts, here are some of the most notable looks from Weekend 1.