I am twist fanatic. My protective style of choice you ask? Twists! I even taught myself how to do my own twist during COVID-19 (Thank you, YouTube!) because the protective hairstyle
makes me feel cool and chic, even when I'm cooped up inside. Another fan of the 'do is Adachi Sanders, founder of Ankh Hair Co and the woman Ava Duvernay trusts with her locs. Sanders chatted with me about one type of twist in particular, Havana twists. Below, Sanders answers all my questions about Havana twists and provides a few product picks to create your own install toolkit.
What are Havana twists?
"Havana twists are natural fiber twist extensions worn as a protective natural hair style," explains Sanders. Havana twists tend to be a bit larger in size than other protective styles, like Marley twists and small or medium box braids.
What’s the difference between Havana and Marley twists?
It's easy to get the two confused, but the main difference is the hair used for twisting. "For Havana Twists you should use Havana Hair, and Marley Twists you would use Marley Hair," says Sanders. She also notes that Marley Hair was once a brand like Havana Hair is today, but was discontinued due to licensing and the use of the Marley name. Now, different brands like Cuban Twist and Xtreme are used to create the Marley twist.
How should you prep your hair for twists?
Just like with most protective styles, hair should always be cleansed and tangle-free before the twisting or braiding style service begins.
How are the twists installed?
You can install twist extensions with two methods: the Twist Knotless method and the Braid in Twist Method. Each will give you the desired twist look. The Rubber Band method is also very popular on YouTube.
Twist Knotless Method
Braid in Twist Method
The Rubber Band Method
What braiding hair should you use?
Sanders' pick for Havana twists is Havana Hair. "It is the best twisting hair to use to achieve the Havana Twist look," she says.
What do you recommend for edge control?
"Laid edges are my favorite!" explains Sanders. "Baby Hair just makes the style pop!" Her go-to edge gel is The Roots. "It's a black-owned product line and his edge control changed the game for my braiding and twisting styles," she adds.
How often should you clean your twists?
"Depending on the length of time that you will keep the Twist extensions in—four to eight weeks, normally— I would say cleanse before installation, three to four weeks after installation, and so forth," she says. "If wearing the twist for the extended period of eight weeks I recommend a touch-up service around four weeks—shampoo services are included."
What’s the takedown like?
The twist takedown might be the simplest takedown. According to Sanders, it requires three essentials: "Some patience, a light snack with tea, and your favorite movie." "You will begin by cutting the very ends of the twists (careful not to cut your hair!) and then you will loosen each strand as it unravels for removal," she says.
Once all twists are removed, Sanders recommends dentaling the hair with a leave-in product (like Ankh Care Leave in Detangler Iris or Zarene). You should also use a Flex Detangle brush or a Denman Detangle brush, then proceed with regular shampooing and cleansing maintenance.
One last thing!
"You should hydrate the scalp daily with a hydration mist spray, as well as nurture and feed the scalp with an oil also known as hair food," says Sanders. "These two combined are vital for growth while the hair is resting in its protective style."
Me in my twists, living my truth.