Pity white supremacy: I mean that in the nicest way possible. This might sound like an odd remark to say when the global issue is—tragically—the suffusing
The public outcry and relevant casualties have become the new normal, but such doesn’t justify the benchmark of racism set against Black people any more than AAPI (Asian-Americans and Pacific Islanders) communities or further ethnic groups. Which is why, to see the harrowing presence of racial disparities taken to extreme proportions, we must look to institutional figures. A British study found that figures released by the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNDOC) and the US Center for Disease Control by data blog FiveThirtyEight found an average of 19.4 African Americans per 100,000 people were murdered between 2010 and 2012. In the past, looking at the rate of discrimination from a global standpoint was deemed complex. Whereas now, the demise of BAME (Black, Asian and Minority Ethnic) lives is hardly compatible with conversations about how to nurture cultural integration in systems rooted in supremacist thinking, which should learn to value the qualities of voices at the forefront of change. Social disparities have a history, and it’s no surprise why racial debates haven’t reached common ground given how tiring they are (clue: a key symptom of white fragility).
“Racism in fashion and in many other industries has been present for ages, whether or not the status quo chose to recognize and acknowledge this,” says Virgil Abloh, one of the world’s most sought-after designers and founder of streetwear behemoth Off-White. “As a Black person with a voice, I’ve always felt it is my responsibility to pave the way for kids who look like me to follow in my footsteps, to ensure they have opportunities that were not afforded to me; to open doors for them that didn’t exist for me and my peers. As a whole we need to uplift Black voices and bring Black talents into positions of power across all industries and occupations.” But the bone of contention is: how do you bring about change? “It needs to start from within,” adds Abloh, “not only within organizations but within each person, by listening, educating themselves and others, being an active partner in anti-racism, and standing for the inherent value of Black lives. Discrimination is something that we’ve all encountered at some point in our lives, whether personally or as a bystander. What’s changed is the overall tolerance for hatred against others. Allyship is important and has been key to this slow change. But this isn’t enough. As an optimist, I believe that we can do this if we work together, toward this communal goal.”
And with multiculturalism so widely celebrated and reported by the media, and pivotal in spearheading much of the arts, film, fashion and creative industry we largely engage with today, it can be easy to feign acceptance and drench in ignorance, turning a blind-eye to the systemic racism that has long been at the core of our system. And lest we forget, it’s not the job of the oppressed to educate on the burdens of race, but a collective societal effort that’s ultimately exposed for all to see.
Below, Vogue highlights a boundary-breaking crop of creatives to shine a light on the sphere of inclusion by way of photography—and deep storytelling.
Gabriella Karefa-Johnson@gabriellak_j
“I have found that existing in the very white fashion space as a Black person requires a constant recalibration of the victory/defeat matrix in relation to representation. I do not think of myself as a pessimist, but I am rather analytical, so while it feels like a win to see more people of colour both in front of and behind the camera this year, rather quickly, the doubt of the industry’s authentic allegiance to that diversification always creeps in. What boxes are being checked behind closed doors, is this a real commitment to changing what fashion looks like and who it is made for or is it tokenism masked by a thin veneer of allyship to be abandoned when the dust clears. I have never been such a fan of incremental change—I think it’s about time for a revolution. There is some relief in the fact that we are having a discussion about representation at all, but as long as the moderators, the gatekeepers, the decision makers do not reflect the communities of which we speak, the conversation is moot.”
Telsha Anderson@telshaanderson
“As our country shifts physically and metaphorically into a new normal, it’s my hope that the value of human life shifts as well. How we treat others is a direct reflection of our inner self, upbringing, and belief system. In the past nine months or so, I feel blessed to have seen individuals who have the same positive values rooted in skin tone and core beliefs band together and move unimaginable mountains. Our ancestors would be proud of our accomplishments despite the opposition we face daily.”
Markn @marknmarkn
“Culturally in the creative industry I see positive changes through the celebration of Black and Asian creatives. Progression, however, is slow. Racism and classism are in parts so inbuilt into language. When we speak a language, the language emphasises ethnic differences and inferiorities which I think hinders progression. For me image making is one of the strongest tools for progression against societal oppression. Language and images both have power. However, I think for many, images are one step ahead of language. Images have the ability to foster curiosity and I believe curiosity is the key. If I look at someone and feel curious then I want to speak to them and try to understand them, so then language comes secondary. If I relate to your story, then it brings us closer to the realisation that we are all connected, and I hope this will promote the manifestation of greater support systems. I am aiming towards creating imagery that evokes a positive feeling and a strong sense of curiosity by telling a nonlinear narrative which in turn I hope will lead to greater empathy for one another and harbour progression.”
Elgar Johnson@elgarjohnson
“Has anything changed? I’m always scratching my head about this particular question. Sometimes I think yes. I see more diverse writers and I see more diversity on photo sets. Even the brands have a much wider representation in their advertising campaigns. But then no it’s not changing because the majority of these places, companies, institutions you know the yes people the bosses they still lack diversity and as long as that continues then nobody can go forward. Words will be changed; skin will be lightened, and it goes on and on. In the words of an eighties band, The Style Council, it's time to ‘Shout To The Top’.”
Mata Marielle@mata_marielle
“The importance of the multicultural gaze in our society is to highlight as well as uplift the work and talent that comes from our community. How we’ve been perceived for so long was at the hands of others that aren’t us - now is a great time for us because we’re able to tell our own narratives in our own way. The importance of being seen, Black women like myself sheds light on our ability to create beautiful things with and for all people. As opposed to the long prevailing view that we are less than. No one wants to talk about it and admit it. But ultimately - the fact that we need to speak, and uplift is a sign that this has been the case. We stand on the shoulders of many Black women and men, and people of colour who have worked tirelessly to get us to this place, and we continue to shout out truths, not only in lifting our voices. But elevating our art, opening doors and making sure that once open they cannot be closed again.”
Matallana@bymatallana
“11 years ago, I moved to New York City from Colombia, Latin America. Looking back, the experience has been one of the most difficult and rewarding transitions of my life. Leaving my loved ones behind was just the first step in my journey in assimilating and adapting into the unique that is New York City; full of diverse cultures, traditions, beliefs, and points of view. It's been a beautiful experience that has opened my eyes, heart, and mind. It has pushed me to learn from people that have completely different backgrounds and life experiences than my own. Now 11 years after this decision I'm witnessing a global social movement that's accelerating changes for some of the biggest systemic issues we still face as humans today. As a New Yorker, I am at a key place of the movement, witnessing the everyday fight for what is fair from the front row with the opportunity to document it for future generations. It is time to reset, readjust and move forward.”
Reece James Morrison@reecejamesmorrison
“In these images, I've documented the ‘COVID Bus’ which runs throughout Newcastle Upon Tyne. This bus aims to target the BAME community where uptake of the vaccine was initially low, in part due to a lack of trust in the government. The communities are targeted and encouraged through 1-to-1 sessions with community workers and faith leaders where they are reassured about the vaccine and made aware of the benefits and overall protection to themselves and others. Dr. Brigid Joughin is one of the Newcastle GPs in the Services team who have been running the service since January of this year, aiming to vaccinate around up to 300 people a day. The COVID Bus visits local mosques and provides vaccines to the public to help spread hope throughout the community. Khaled Musharraf, a key player in the Covid Bus initiative said we must ‘do it with the community, for the community, in the community’, in order to restore the trust and address the societal shifts that have led to this classism.”
Alexandra Leese@alexleese
“I find myself wanting to photograph our joy, and our beauty more and more, to show that our strength, and our importance is not only determined by how much suffering we endure, but how much joy we can hold, and how much beauty we bring to the world.”
Anastasia Garcia@anastasiagphoto
“People look to visual media to understand how they fit into society. Which makes being a photographer a powerful position. Every photograph is an opportunity to challenge the harmful beauty standards that have fuelled white supremacy. This means showcasing racial diversity and highlighting how racial diversity intersects with other identities. For me, that has meant focusing heavily on creating photographs with a range of body types, specifically plus-size bodies. Because fatphobia is rooted in racism. As a photographer, I have a responsibility to use my lens to reframe the way we think about what is beautiful. And my goal is to continue to create work where beauty is not synonymous with thinness, or whiteness.”
Joel Palmer@_boyheart_
“My creativity and artistic outputs have always been about championing diversity and amplifying the voices of the marginalised in the face of oppression. This piece showcases the humanity within POC communities. This is a direct response to the portrayal of these communities in the media, one that depicts the lives of POCs as nothing more than demonised existences against which violence is constantly perpetuated. By exaggerating and creating surreal theatre out of the normal, the scenes celebrate the human moments and interactions of the talent, from athletes, dancers and artists to a family running a Black-owned business. I hope people find inspiration to feel proud of their culture, and their interests. I want them to draw strength from their individuality. The empowerment that comes with having your story told cannot be overstated. Everyone has excellence within them that deserves to be championed.”
Dennis Tejero@dennistejero
“As an artist, I always find inspiration from real life experiences. This includes finding ideas from the diasporas that I have been immersed in throughout my years in this world. A big part of my work is using it as a vehicle for the education of my contemporaries/viewers of my images of the various minority cultures that have played a big role in my formation as an individual. If I spark any curiosity about these subjects, I find that as a compliment to my efforts.”
Steve Harnacke@steve_harnacke
“We live in a world where division is created through outlining differences, instead, differences should unite us. We should unite and celebrate our differences and understand that celebrating and empowering each other will create a true representation of what humanity should be.”
Freddie Hare@freddie.hare
“Today more than ever it is important that we respect and celebrate all types ethnic, racial, cultural, gender, and other differences in our groups and cultivate a multicultural atmosphere. Incorporate language, art, music, rituals, and ways of working together that derive from diverse cultures. We are living in a world that is increasingly diverse, and through fashion and photography we have the chance to show and embrace fully multiculturalism and diversity. Here we have created something truly meaningful through the new change of life. Our project was very simple - to show the end result of what a fusion of cultures can provide.”
Erik Carter@erik_carter
“The current pulse of this world is rapid and unforgiving. Yes, in these recent times marginalised communities are being abused, it’s in the very definition of that word, and for many of these communities, this is not new territory, but rather a sharp recurring reminder of what still needs to be done. Though just as the cacophony of hate swells, so does the boom of love and resilience. As Black people, particularly Black queer people, we create a world that forges space to hold each other, physically, spiritually, and emotionally. The simple image of leaning on one another is important and compelling. Somewhere, in the midst of the chaos and destruction, we find the time and energy to laugh, cry, and love each other. I think there’s awesome power in our unabashed joy and affection, and ultimately, therein lies the great display of our humanity, so often ignored.”
Sophie Kietzmann@sophiekietzmann
“Through the lens of observation, I grow into the receptacle to other people’s stories that I strive to be in this world. I am humbled by the gift given to me by each individual in these images that allow me a glimpse not only at their physical presence within this space but an offering of truth in whatever form and capacity they are capable and gracious enough to offer. And so, I sit and listen while they unravel,
something that I have been raised to be blind to and yet is so purely human there is nothing more transcendental or holier than the stories being told and the voices telling them.”
Emmanuel Sanchez Monsalve@emmanuelsmonsalve
“Society needed to be awakened, the times we live in now are needed for our new generation to realise the mistakes that happened in the past. Intergenerational trauma has caused so much harm to this world. By accepting past mistakes, as a community, we should take every step to fix them.”
Kyle Weeks@_kyleweeks_
“As we move toward an increasingly homogenous globalised society, my hope for the future is that the hybridisation of cultures doesn’t result in indistinguishable cultural differences as well as a common disregard for one another. On the contrary, I believe that now is the time to cherish each culture for its uniqueness, to make a concerted effort to understand these differences and to recognise that these distinctions are in fact what makes the world such a vibrant place. My work as a photographer aims to bridge divides caused by unfamiliarity. It’s a celebration of a diverse, yet common humanity.”
Xavier Scott Marshall@xavierscottmarshall
“I was born into a Trinidadian immigrant home in New York, which forced me from an early age to understand that many cultures can coexist within the Black diaspora. Although growing up across America I never really related to Black-American culture, because when I got home, I was in another world where my family spoke with accents, told tales from home and ate traditional Trini food. It wasn’t until 2016 when I visited Trinidad, for the first time as an adult, with my family for my grandfather’s funeral that I really started to understand the concept of true multiculturalism. I photographed this project titled ‘Selfhood; Love & Loss’ over the course of a week to help me find and represent the many facets of what makes up my family identity coming from the diverse cultural ecosystem of Trinidad. Five years since the project was shot, I am now living in London and finding myself revisiting these archival images to further understand and bridge the cultural gap between the underrepresented global Afro-Caribbean diaspora. From Hinduism and Christianity to Islam and Catholicism, there are a great wealth of faiths represented in these images; meditating on the coexistence of many different belief systems, which is a lesson I believe we can all learn from given the state of the world at the moment.”
Chieska Fortune Smith@chieskafortunesmith
“It’s so crucial to have diverse representation behind an image as well as its subject. Currently the view of women, Black and minority ethnic people, and anyone who is marginalised, can be cast with a shadow, underlying darkness and trauma. Whilst true, it’s vital to show the joy and beauty as well, and that can only be done by having multi-ethnic creatives lending their personal knowledge and experience because beyond the pain, it’s important to show the celebration as well.”
Fabien Montique@fabienmontique
“I remember that when growing up in Barbados, lunch break was a time for games shared by everyone. We all played together without fail, whether it was raining or sunny, there were no distinctions of any nature, whether from the variety of skin colours or social classes. It was only after moving to the USA and applying to local photography schools that I experienced the difference in skin colour, not only as one of the only people of colour in the line but also as being now put in a group, which had its place in the social hierarchy, its barriers with the others. In other words, we were not supposed to all play together anymore. So, for this submission, my aim was to create images that would remind me of this time that was a time of innocence and not of anxiety, a childish joy. I hope the remembrance of these moments can help us overcome the bad times.”
Silvana Trevale@silvanatrevale
“Through my photographic practice, I have taken pride in honouring the collective real-life heroines of my home country Venezuela. As a Latina immigrant in London, I want to use my work to bring attention, support and more opportunities for Latin Americans in the UK – a community rarely discussed or granted visibility, despite being one of the UK's fastest-growing demographics. Beyond its original meaning of godmother to one's child, ‘comadre’ is a term of kinship and sisterhood between Latin American women. These images are part of the project ‘Comadres’ –made with stylist Daniela Benaim– is a tribute to our heritage, featuring only Latin American immigrants and British born Latinx. With references to Violeta Parra, La Virgen de Guadalupe, La Llorona, La Malinche, Walter Mercado and Muxe identity, the series celebrates the power of Latinx femininity and gender-bending.”
Mary Kang@mary.kang
“I lament that it takes multiple tragedies for our society to finally listen to marginalized communities’ voices and works. I get angry when white people in power give us unsolicited advice to take advantage of this time period where people are paying attention to us, when we wish that these traumatic events never even happened to begin with. I am trying to channel this anger into building my creative works, by taking care of myself, and by making efforts to build towards equity and accountability in the photo industry with collectives such as Authority Collective, Diversify Photo, and Women Photograph, among others.”
Nuru Kimondo@nurukimondo_
“I am so glad to see the amplification of marginalised voices in today's media. In the past, the limited number of opportunities available for Black creatives was hard to deal with. Over time, I realised I was settling for less even though I wanted to do much more. This influx of POC representation has worked to create a platform for dialogue, awareness, and change which has allowed us to have hope again. For this project, I picked a few images of Black models who have inspired me in my individual and artistic journey. I chose this variation to highlight and celebrate the diversity that we all share.”
Alexander Saladrigas@alexandersaladrigas
“As a Cuban-American, I grew up often finding myself ashamed of being culturally different from those around me. For so many people in America, wearing your culture brings oppression and ridicule. It wasn’t until I became a photographer that I realized that part of the problem with hiding your culture is that the less exposure something has, the more foreign something is to people, the scarier it can seem. That’s why I made it my duty to share the stories of minorities. The more exposure we can give to different cultures, the more we expose the humanity in all of us - bringing us all closer together.”
Jingyu Lin@jingyulin_
“As an industry, we’ve been trained and taught that the photography itself is what holds value, but what’s equally important and often overlooked is the photographer behind the image. There’s something to be said about being conscious as you try to understand someone’s work. As an Asian-American woman, all my photographs, whether related to the AAPI community or not, speak to my history. The nuances in my imagery that most wouldn’t think twice about are all subconsciously connected to my lived experiences growing up in a traditional Chinese home with Chinese values; the way I shape light, the expressions/poses I draw from my subjects, and so many other elements I naturally gravitate towards. This is why it’s so important for the industry to be deliberate about the photographers they work with, because that unique eye is baked into every aspect of their imagery, not only when directly working on a project regarding that community.”
© Misan Harriman
Zadrian Smith@zadriansmith
“There is no better time than now, to be the change you want to see. Like a phoenix from the ashes, you must rise to the occasion.”
Daniel Martin@danielmartin
“I feel like the human race is being tested right now. We've disrupted our environment, lost faith in our governments and we as a society have succumbed to technology in such an unhealthy way. We need to relearn empathy, compassion and respect for each other to build back the balance and harmony we all are seeking at this moment."
Tyler Bolivar@tylerjbolivar
“Acting as an opportunity for knowledge and understanding, multiculturalism plays an integral role in our rapidly developing world. Bridging the gaps and finding what unites us all as people creates a foundation upon which we can grow and learn for our future. Rich heritage, cultural values, and untold stories are being brought to light now more than ever through curriculums, workforces, and artistic mediums. However, the room to grow closer as a human race still remains. The solution comes through platforms such as these, where unheard voices speak loudly, and conscious listening educates the masses; pushing us towards an era where hostility and prejudice are behind us. I take pride in my cultural heritage and identity. Amour states “My Ukrainian mother instilled the importance of a strong work ethic, while maintaining selflessness. My Lebanese father stressed the importance of family, love and hospitality, which are painted in his Arabic penmanship.”
Bella Newman@bella_newman
“What is horrific about the violence that is happening to BAME people in the U.S. is that they have targeted not only people working at their jobs, but healers. Perseverance is embodied in the immigrant woman. My grandmother, pictured, relishes in the jewels she’s earned from working her way up to being her own boss. And now she is certainly the boss. Western cultures can certainly benefit from adopting Eastern doctrines on a deep reverence for one’s elders. They are the ones who have seen the most.”
Kenny Germé@knngrm
“As an active member of the Black community I’m very sad to see that in 2021, after all the darkest events of history, from slavery to holocaust through many genocides, lessons still haven't been learned. Sad to witness that it became almost normal (again) to vehicle and preach out loud hateful thoughts that lead to actual physical violence simply based on skin colour or origin (alongside sexual orientation, gender, physical appearance). I would not say that the situation is new or recent, it has always been bad, but I think nowadays there are more filmed documents that proves that racial discrimination and hate are still very alive. Talking about my community, they often forget that the cornrows braids they have, the hoops earrings they wear, the jazz, rock, hip hop music they listen to and many more comes from Black culture. From Chuck Berry and Jimi Hendrix to Quincy Jones through to Gordon Parks and many others, we were at the beginning of a lot of historical steps that are still relevant and are trendy nowadays. That’s why in my work I love to show my people at their best, proudly represent them. Teach about my community and my culture that has been for so long unappreciated, neglected and rejected. I use photography as my medium to educate. Oppression, injustice, hate, discrimination and racism has nothing to do in our society.”
Amanda Lim@itsamandalim
“Across AAPI communities, the foundation of our cultural representation lies within our family: its function and its hierarchy. Reverie and respect of our elders is the DNA and inspiration for our artistic expression as well as how we express love. Meeting my client Ella Jay Basco in September 2019 and continuing to work with her today is an extremely meaningful and personal experience as it allows us to connect with and support AAPI designers that remind us of home. Designers who supported Ella through her Birds of Prey press tour included the likes of Prabal Gurung, Mee-Hee Hanbok, Jason Wu, Phillip Lim, Derek Lam and Christopher Bu, allowing Ella to visually represent her multi-hyphenate artistic nature in her fashion choices. At just fourteen years old, Ella amplifies a hopeful energy for generations ahead of and behind her through her thoughtfulness and celebration of her family and where she comes from.”
Omar Macchiavelli@omarmacchiavelli
"I was born in a society where the face and future did not depend on the beliefs. I was very fortunate for this and to have a family that embraced each corner of the world as a natural shape of an undiscovered rough jewel. I use my profession as a photographer when there is an opportunity to capture beautiful moments and people in hope that this can contribute even for a small crowd a seed of a positive impact in hope to erase any negative thought of cultural diversity. We are all one."
Adedamola Odetara@adedamola_op
“With the rise of Afrofuturist art and the recent success of films like BLACK IS KING, conversations about the beauty of Black culture and heritage have never been more mainstream. But our worth is not a trend: Black people have always been beautiful. We have always known that. It’s the rest of the world that’s just catching up. It is tempting to get overwhelmed by the grim realities of the times: our struggle, our pain, our death. But the tragedy is not our only reality. I wanted to show how we live, how we love, how we navigate the world as our truest selves. These pictures highlight our existence through the lens of joy, celebration, pride, sisterhood, community and of course style. Black culture has influenced the world for ages, but we rarely get credit for it. This is an attempt to re-centre us within our cultural expressions.”
Rasaan Wyzard@monsieur_wyzard
“The only way for me to advocate for representation I feel the industry lacks, is for me to create those opportunities myself - which in its truest form, I found in photographing my family. My process began when I found it necessary to look introspectively to figure out what means the most to me, in order to make the authentic storytelling that I am passionate about creating. More than telling “Black stories,” It is important for me to represent my culture, community, and ultimately narratives that pull from my personal experience. I believe if more artists take a personal approach, there would be less issues in regard to diverse representation. Navigating systemic oppression, I’ve learned people like me don’t always have the privilege of writing our own history. With photography - at least there is evidence.”
The Bardos@the_bardos
“Having grown up as a white person in Zimbabwe and then South Africa, I’ve been surrounded by extreme displays of race-based discrimination but only since moving to Europe have, I begun to see its subtleties and unpack how much it shapes every industry, every relationship and country. Where I once thought it was typical of my heritage, I now understand it to be a global crisis that I try to address through my work and in my day-to-day encounters. The simple choice of deciding to represent people of all ethnicities across the board, is something too easily overlooked as I have seen how it is a potent form of empowerment and recognition.”
Lauren Machen@machenmachen
“We exist within systems that are deeply flawed and damaging. The slowdown of life that has come with the pandemic has created the space for us to really see and hear each other. As a Black woman I’ve often felt unsafe in my surroundings and spent much of my early years feeling uneasy in my own skin. I’m mixed race so my existence in a world preoccupied with binaries has always left me feeling like I don’t have a place. It’s probably why I create environments for a living, I can restructure and tailor a space to fit the needs of the subject. I think we’re in that process on a very macro scale right now. Those of us who see that the systems and spaces we exist within are flawed and destructive, are taking this time to call out what’s not serving us and rebuild. I recognized that a huge part of this is taking time to rest and celebrate my existence, my joy. BIPOC folks can’t and shouldn’t always be the teachers. A part of this change is keying into that. I’ve always looked to nature for inspiration, I think it's paramount to look to nature now for guidance on how we build the new world so that it works for all beings. And we need to put the well-being of every person at the centre of it.”
Kerry Dean@kerryjdean
“I first went to Mongolia more than fifteen years ago, it was a turning point in my life, I think in many ways it saved me. I don’t fully understand why I feel so at home, devoted and connected there but I do and I’m very thankful for that discovery. My aim is to represent a truth, which often starts with something or someone I’ve met or observed. I then work to almost amplify the essence of the person or place, revisiting, adding and subtracting layers. The practicalities of everyday still seem so incredibly theatrical, it often feels like a privilege to be allowed to witness these domestic acts and traditions.”