SuzyMFW: Milan Open Its Fashion Week – Actually And Digitally

I have seen enough shows over many years to know that the art and the effect is so often in the detail. And from a viewpoint where the backs and sides of the models are presented as they move. Even the setting itself is crucial to the expression and, in its turn, to the artistic designers’ souls.

Spring/Summer 2021 has opened in Italy with brands making the choice of how, as well as what, to show. The ‘live’ and the ‘virtual’ presentations inter-mingle, making it all the more complicated for viewers in other countries. (That’s me and a line-up of people who are no longer free to take the plane or make the trip.)

The most successful show so far was Fendi, where a mix of elegance and emotion was produced by Silvia Venturini Fendi, presenting her third major show since Karl Lagerfeld, the house’s designer for over 50 years, passed away. And also her last womenswear - this will now be handed over to Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior Men (a role he will keep).

Silvia hit exactly the right note in a film that captured the models against an airy background of curtains (real or maybe digital) blowing in the wind. Using white in subtly different shades, for dresses worn by women speaking in different body languages, the designer brought a warm emotion to the mixed male/female collection.

The concept of desire and delivery is rare in fashion, but Silvia explained her emotional response to the covid lockdown, which she spent beside her family.

“This collection is born from reflection, time and lots of love,” she said. “My expression of home, family and all the things we each hold dear to us – values passed down from generation to generation – like precious linens.”

Those linens appeared in the show for clothing and even handbags, adding to the exquisite gentleness of each offering. Silvia is leaving womenswear with her head held high – or better still, with the legacy of a perfectly balanced male/female collection that should continue with Kim Jones, her friend and fashion partner.

Dolce & Gabbana

Another Dolce Gabbana show – after a treasure trove of Alta Moda in Florence less than a month ago? The duo have a gift for creating new fashion seasons that underscore their spirit – yet manage to have a different theme each time.

It was not the first time the duo had rooted a show in Sicily, but this season it was to particularly electrifying effect.

In a duality of conversations, the designers talked about the new dream: “The patchwork of Sicilia based on that hyper-fashionable concept of re-make and mend.”

Speaking together, they said: “Sicily is such a very dear dream for us – given our long experience in designing and being inspired by it. We wanted to show all the things you can find – the different cultures that dominated from the Spanish to the Arabs and the Normans. We have treasured everything they have brought to us – and put it all together.”

‘All’ meant mixes of pattern on everything in this live show – from the runway to the backdrop to every single model (give or take the very occasional black and white). There was an over-blast of colour and texture, yet at the same time something authentically Southern-Italian about the look. 

Citing Palermo, Catania, Syracuse and Agrigento, Domenico and Stefano mixed colours and combinations of fabrics from poplin to georgette to chiffon. It was a masterpiece of handwork, which is why behind the eventual effects were the words that define Italian fashion – and make it different from the rest of Europe:

“Fatta a mano”, the duo chorused. “Hand-made."