Photo: Imaxtree
"There is a town somewhere in America. A town that may feel familiar, as if from a dream. A town where it's always the golden hour and things are happening — on the street, inside our homes and in our hearts. A town where anything (yes, anything) is possible if you can ask yourself, 'What if?'"
That's how the neighborhood newsletter left on every seat at the Coach Fall 2022 show — cheekily titled "The Coach" — opened. (Also in the newsletter: an ad for Coach Bakery's freshly baked pie, a write-in advice column dubbed "Dear Bonnie," a letter from a reader raving about the latest graffiti on Main Street and more.) It sets the stage for Stuart Vevers' latest autumnal line, which uses this idea of an idyllic small town as a way to elaborate on values that have been introduced over the course of his tenure as creative director: a desire for community, a reverence of tradition, an appreciation of craftsmanship, a sense of humor and a love for storytelling
"Building from spring, this collection continues to reinvestigate our Coach heritage through the lens of the next generation, referencing the legacy of American style and its language of ease and function whilst continuing to evolve what this means as we push forward into a more sustainable, inclusive future," Vevers tells Fashionista via e-mail. "This season builds on the feelings of comfort, nostalgia and joy I introduced in recent seasons, evolved through the lens of romance. The starting point was the romance of America and its love stories, and the feelings of warmth and affection they evoke — feelings that I wanted to speak to in our collective moment." (It was a very appropriate sentiment for a show scheduled for Valentine's Day.)
That comes together in a leather-heavy collection that explores all the different ways that can translate into a wardrobe, especially when it comes to "texture, tactility, ruggedness and warmth — both in material and in terms of color," Vevers says. "This is contrasted with a romantic beauty that comes through in the collection's lace and crocheted dresses and acid colors that reference youth subculture."
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The nostalgia really comes through in the shapes and silhouettes seen throughout — oversized shearling coats with knee-length shorts, cropped-sleeved capes, Peter Pan-collared babydoll dresses, slick leather trenches — and in the graphic patterns, which include electric houndstooths and graffiti artwork by Mint&Serf. Overall, the assortment feels homey and familiar, like something one would imagine wearing to a hometown dive bar, with that inherent cool that comes from the brand's New York City sensibility.
"I think many of us — myself, as a designer, and our audience — are gravitating towards the things that bring us comfort in this time of change," Vevers says. "Fall expresses this by leaning into comfort, nostalgia and tactility. These are ideas I'm often drawn to at Coach, but over the past two years, they have become more central to the way I design."
Throughout his time at Coach, Vevers has celebrated the brand's heritage by reimagining pieces from the archive and paying homage to designers like Bonnie Cashin. For Fall 2022, he's bringing back one of her bags, the Sling, which he says "captures the warmth and humor that was so special about Bonnie, and still feels relevant today." It's also the first product to launch from the collection: A limited drop of Cashin Carry Sling Bags are available to purchase in select stores and on coach.com starting on Feb. 14.
See the complete Coach Fall 2022 collection in the gallery below.
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