Photo: Imaxtree
Just one week after accepting her SAG award in a Louis Vuitton gown, HoYeon Jung opened the brand's Fall 2022 runway show at the Musée D'Orsay in Paris. The model-slash-actor wore slouchy pinstriped trousers, a button-down with a floral tie and an oversized leather jacket, setting the stage for the Annie Hall-meets-schoolgirl-meets-'90s-youth-culture-meets-Nicolas Ghesquière collection to come.
There's a rebellious sense of making room for self expression, comfort and gender fluidity in the face of the sort of preppy sartorial restrictions endured by the 1%: office-appropriate suits, school uniforms, formal gowns, etc. Ties are unabashedly colorful and floral, sometimes paired with monogram neck scarves. Jackets and sweaters, while neutral in color, appear "borrowed from the boys." Tweed pinafore dresses are ornately textured and patterned, worn over luxurious, slouchy sweaters with knee-high boots or bold sneakers. I'm not sure a "Gossip Girl" student could even get away with such a creative interpretation of her uniform, but she'd probably try. (Paging Eric Daman.)
A richly pink suit styled with a blush tie, grey overcoat and monogram garment bag could make even the most right-brained, fashion-obsessed person consider a conservative, corporate job. For the youths and creatives (or those inspired by them), the suits were followed by series of colorful tops and tunics featuring portraits by David Sims of disaffected '90s teens. Their youthful, rebellious spirit could be felt in the final looks: Models, as if forced to dress up for some boring formal event, topped their frilly gowns with big, boxy, menswear-inspired knits and rugby shirts.
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