On Beauty, Mobility, And Poetry: Paolo Roversi’s New Exhibition Is A Riveting Ode To Rei Kawakubo

Every plague has a silver lining. With never-ending disruptions found at every news blast, creativity acts as an unbridled weapon that condones hardships and embraces positive change in times of unrest. Paolo Roversi’s careful curation has throngs ravenously taking in his achingly beautiful photographs in all their glory. Forever walking a fine line by creating a narrative that is both simple and bold, the legendary Italian photographer is not just another man with a camera. With an added proficiency for incredibly brooding image-making, his practice has propelled in the beauty of his work, which is entrancing and soul-laden. His prowess continues to delight with the release of a new exhibit, Birds, shown at the Dallas Contemporary until August 22, 2021. Featuring over 40 of Roversi’s photographic artworks, the exhibition pays tribute to his long-time collaboration with Comme des Garçons’ founder, Rei Kawakubo. Permeated with abstract storytelling—which, at first sight, hides its heaviness—there’s an emotional grit to these photographs that is somewhat cathartic yet enigmatic.

The striking differences between mobility and stillness were Roversi’s starting point for the new exhibition. Of particular note, darkness has always been a part of Kawakubo’s heritage. Every season, without fail, Rei Kawakubo—and her insanely lavish bravado—knows a thing or two on how elevate the colour black. Most of her collections are made up of pitch and coal black—with sporadic splashes of bright hues—whilst a hazy aura transcends the overall ambience. Seriously, though, her reluctance to provide information post shows fuels craze and anticipation amidst editors, leaving it open to interpretation (and bewilderment). In spite of an empire built on exaggeration and workmanship, Kawakubo’s “coded juxtaposition” is a murky dialogue which, to some extent, always comes to light.

Perhaps Kawakubo’s explanation clarified why she urged to collaborate with Roversi, showcasing garments that embody a rigorous demeanour which, I kid you not, isn’t for the fainthearted. “For over 40 years, I have adored the work of Paolo and I have complete faith and trust in his work, given its potent sway” Kawakubo told Vogue, referring to the poetry that suffuses the photographs (case in point: here, poetry is translated in the plethora of dramatic shapes and colour palettes, running from pale greys to opulent reds). Sounds straightforward? Think again. As to symbolism, the quiet grandeur of the exhibition uses movement through photography which, once dismantled, recalls the motion of birds landing or taking off. Skewing the sumptuous appeal of the clothing are coloured walls and different-sized artworks, visible upon arrival at the art gallery. Visitors are able to explore Roversi’s work through one unifying theme in the exhibition—visual movement, the haziness of which is soothed, in turn, by beams of light—to foster new connections and interpretations around his oeuvre. “My collaboration with Rei Kawakubo goes back a long time and each time working with her is a new inspiring adventure,” says Roversi in the press notes.

“As Dallas Contemporary is bringing all arts—including fashion—closer, it seemed a good opportunity to show my work together with hers.” Birds will showcase known photographs by Roversi, likewise exclusive imagery never shown before. On display, there will be photographs spanning the four-decade creative relationship Roversi and Kawakubo have nurtured over time, which epitomises how these two fashion ground-breakers have birthed ideas and creative philosophies throughout their remarkable journey.  

Birds is co-curated by Dallas Contemporary Executive Director Peter Doroshenko and Independent Curator Dennis Freedman, and was originally planned to open in March 2020. This exhibition Paolo is made possible thanks to the generous support of Comme des Garçons, with the support of Heidi + Bill Dillon and Sue Gragg Precious Jewels.

Information

‘Birds’ will be on show from 30 January - 22 August 2021 at Dallas Contemporary.

dallascontemporary.org